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The
large, slow moving Shingleback Tiliqua Rugosa is one of
many easily spotted native animals in the park. Visitors often find
them basking on roads, where their mortality is high. Reported to
exceed 20 years of age. Photo: Jeff Wong |
Over the past three decades the Foundation has acquired more than 350,000 hectares of land.
Places of natural beauty, cultural significance or habitat for threatened species became protected, creating 17 new National Parks and Nature Reserves. Discover one Foundation Park in each PAWS issue, starting with Mungo National Park in the Far West of NSW.
The Foundation purchased the
first 15,700 hectares of Mungo NP’s estate in 1979 to protect the
unique landforms and archaeological sites.
Jeff Wong visited Mungo in August and shares his impressions of landscapes,
history and wildlife in his travel report.
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Jeff
Wong on a photographic excursion of Mungo's white sand dunes. Photo: Carmen Welss |
Mungo National Park
By Jeff Wong
Mungo National Park is the site of one of the most important archaeological developments in Australia’s history. It was here that erosion unearthed positive evidence of human occupation in Australia dating back 40,000 years. The most visually spectacular feature of the park is the “Walls of China” – dazzling white sand dunes more than 30 metres high curving for over 30 kilometres around part of the now dry Lake Mungo, leaving a foreground likened to a lunar landscape.
Mungo National Park is a semi-arid landscape in the Willandra Lakes World Heritage Area, a system of lakes, which were once fed by Willandra Creek but dried up 15,000 years ago. The road to Lake Mungo takes the traveller across the dry, salt-bush covered lake beds of lakes Arumpo, Leaghur and Garnpung.
Arriving in the park, I was pleased to find the Visitor Centre with informative displays, maps, hot showers and a picnic area with barbecues. Ranger guided Discovery Tours depart from the centre on weekends and school holidays, although it is best to check with the Buronga Office to confirm if they will be running.
Where
is Mungo National Park? |
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Walking on the moon
The adjacent old shearers' quarters are available for accommodation, and along with the woolshed provide interesting places to explore. Mungo's main attraction, however, are the Walls of China, a 33 kilometre long crescent-shaped sand dune. A 10 kilometre drive to the boardwalk and viewing platform allows for a closer inspection of the lunette formed by the prevailing westerly winds.
Three different coloured layers of sediments mark distinct geological periods and indicates times when the lake was filled with water. I would have read the signs describing these layers, but was distracted by the late afternoon colours of the eroded pinnacles protruding from the dunes, and a serene desert sunset in the opposite direction.
Spending at least one night in Mungo is recommended so that one can marvel at the beauty of the formations at both sunset and sunrise. The Main campsite is about 2 kilometres from the Visitor Centre and allows visitors to do some of the short walks to a lookout and nature trails. (See main map area - right)
Archaeological treasure hunt
On the second day we explored the archaeological treasures hidden in the lunette. A ranger took us on a Discovery Tour through the dunes to find Aboriginal artefacts including 7,000 year old fireplaces and tools, animal tracks and wildlife fossils, and to sample some local bitter bush. The walk took us to the other side of the dunes, which are being moved eastwards by the wind at the rate of up to 3 metres per year.
The dunes are fragile and parts have suffered visibly from years of visitor attention. Signs ask visitors not to climb on any of the formations, and in the near future the park’s management will extend the boardwalk to reduce the human impact on the dunes.
Click here for Mungo landscapes
Mungo’s plants and animals
A 70 km self-guided drive tour is a loop that takes you along a red dirt road across the contrasting lighter-coloured sand dunes to the mallee country on the eastern side of the lunette. Signs at the Mallee Stop, just before the Belah campsite halfway along the loop where I spent my second night, encourage visitors to pretend to be botanists and zoologists. Using the helpful signage, I successfully identified three of the various types of mallee eucalypts. Colourful mallee ringneck parrots also cooperated in being identified.
Red and Western Grey Kangaroos, echidnas, shingleback lizards and bearded dragons and emus and pink cockatoos are also likely to cross your path in the park. Binoculars are a useful tool for watching the bird-life as well as for some stargazing at night.
The Zanci homestead site, also on the loop, has an interesting underground bunker that was used to escape the heat. Temperatures were in the low to mid twenties during the day at the time of my visit in August, but the shelter would have worked more noticeably in the forty to fifty degree temperatures during the summer.
Mungo National Park is 110 km north-east of Mildura, 147 km north-west of Balranald and 174 km south-west of Ivanhoe. Willandra National Park is 263 km away and provides an interesting overnight stopover when driving from Sydney, although extra fuel could be brought along for peace of mind.
In future PAWS issues discover the other Foundation Parks including
Bouddi National Park
Cathedral Rocks National Park
Crowdy Bay National Park
Maroota Historic Site (Devil's Rock)
Mallee Cliffs National Park
Mutawintji National Park
Morton National Park
Myall Lakes National Park
Sturt National Park
Warrabah National Park
Willandra National Park
Yuraygir National Park
Cecil Hoskins Nature Reserve
Coturaundee Nature Reserve
Little Llangothlin Nature Reserve
Yathong Nature Reserve
